Au trecut 25 de ani fără Ceauşescu. România fără Ceaușescu la cârmă a făcut mai mulți ani decât făcuse cu el, care a domnit 24 de ani. Nicolae Ceauşescu n-a văruit atâtea cârciumi câte au construit cei care i-au luat puterea. Încercăm un fel de bilanţ pe Craiova.
În centru exista un patrulater al restaurantelor de fală: Jiul, Minerva, Cina, Palace. Primele trei aveau şi terasă. Minerva deţinea mai multe spaţii, iar în cramă găseai uneori ciorbă de burtă. Şi Jiul prezenta restaurant, braserie, bar. S-au mai ridicat alte localuri în anii ’80: Snack Bar, Dietetic, Acvariu, Doljeana, ultimele două unul sub altul, pe Unirii, la fântâna cântătoare a acelor vremuri. Mai aveam, în eşalonul doi, Periniţa, Craiova, Oltenia, Union, Cocoşul de aur. Micuţa cafenea a lui Agop, de peste drum de Universitate, şi câteva bodegi, Ţărăncuţa, Nufărul, Dorna. Cam cu asta venea tot centrul Craiovei să întâmpine nevoile beţivilor.
Boala metaforelor s-a manifestat concret!
Într-o cârciumă comunistă, întrebai: Aveți bere? În cazul nu foarte probabil al unui răspuns afirmativ al chelnerului, ar fi fost o utopie cât însuși comunismul să mai întrebi: De care bere? Era prea destul că aveau! Oricum, nu știai dacă bei Bucegi, Perinița ori Azuga. Ospătarii aveau grijă să țină sticlele într-un lădoi cu apă și gheață până li se duceau etichetele. Astfel, le comercializau la preț superior celui real. Putea să te pască ghinionul ca-n sticla de bere să detectezi urme de ulei.
A scirs Ion Băieșu o schiță pe care a implantat-o și în scenariul filmului Grăbește-te încet. O tipă suferise în copilărie de ceea ce numea ea „boala metaforelor“. Spune femeia că, dacă mama o îndemna să se bage pe sub pielea unchiului său, ea asta încerca să facă, fizic. Sau să-l tragă pe frate-său de limbă. Cazul nu e doar unul literar: de boala metaforelor au suferit și mai-marii peste alimentația publică în ceaușism. Spre finele domniei sale, Ceaușescu a dat un ordin: în unitățile de alimentație publică, toți responsabilii să desfășoare activitatea fără perdea! Și de la toate cârciumile au dispărut perdelele. Stăteau clienții ca-n acvariu. Sau ca-n terariu, că mai mult ședeau pe uscat. Bine totuși că nu le-a trasat președintele imperativul să ia taurul de coarne ori să rupă pisica-n două… Tot la acea vreme și tot la ordinul aceluiași, localurile n-au mai ținut deschis mai mult de zece seara. Cerința asta n-a mai fost o metaforă.
Craiova ţine sus steagul Craiovei ceauşiste
Azi, doar pe 50 de metri din strada Panait Muşoiu se înşiruie Da Vinci, Murphy’s, Legends, Rendez Vous. Sau, lipite una de alta, pe Traian Demetrescu: Chez Nous (zis și Facebar), Agop (în fine, Shelter), Niagara și cel mai nou bar din Centrul vechi, Fabrica. La doi paşi de ele: Play, Korona, Sofia Bistro, Chicago, La Pasaj, Plaza, Pub’s Pub… Dietetic s-a făcut Papa Barzetti, apoi restaurant arăbesc, Sanack Bar a fost Berăria lui Costi Răducănoiu și acum spațiul îi este de închiriat, lângă ele s-a pripăşit un restaurant vânătoresc şi un striptease, Jiul se dărâmă și se reconstruiește în draci.
La Cina sălăşluieşte TVR Craiova, Periniţa e iarăşi Periniţa, One Pub vine lângă ea, pe-acolo e şi Il Girassole, Minerva mai face doar nunţi, în salonul maur, avem Scena, lângă Teatru, Erik Pub, barurile aliniate pe Unirii, la noile fântâni, Casa Împăratului sau cum i-o mai zice, așa, Royal, Bellona, Lino şi încrengătura de la Kubik… La Dolce Vita, Las Vegas… Asta ca să nu ne depărtăm prea tare de buricul oraşului. Și totuși, trebuie să ne depărtăm cu un deget, nu putem omite Perdido Station, de pe strada Petre Carp. Oltenia nu mai e, dar uitarăm tocmai de Craiova. De bună seamă, cel mai vechi restaurant din urbe care şi-a păstrat denumirea, funcţionând neîntrerupt de la începutul domniei lui Ceauşescu!
Primul bar privat a cucerit teritoriul unei săli de lectură
N-o să ghiciţi care a fost primul local particular deschis în Craiova după Revoluţie! Nici nu ştim să-i spunem precis pe nume, ceva cu rock şi caffe. Şi sălăşluia în Căminul 10, al Facultăţii de Electrotehnică, la etajul 6. A fost primul triumf al societăţii de consum în dauna studiului: barul s-a deschis într-o sală de lectură, în primăvara lui 1990. Dacă e să fim sinceri însă, cărţile cele mai des folosite în sala aia de lectură, chiar şi sub Ceauşescu, erau în număr de 52 într-un pachet, jucau studenţii tarnib în neștire, era la modă.
Cafeneaua rockerilor studenţi a deschis-o un tip Chilly, din Segarcea, care pusese studiile superioare în cui încă din ceauşism, dar locuia-n cămin cu soţia sa, studentă, şi făcea bişniţă. Şi Chilly n-a dat cu piciorul posibilităţii de a bişniţări cu acte în lege. Barul era plin zi şi noapte. La cutremurul din mai 1990, de la ora prânzului, un client a zbughit-o pe scări luând cu el paleta de rummy şi având grijă să nu-i cadă pietrele, făcuse formaţii bune, aștepta să-nchidă. Chilly este și priuli cârciumar care și-a dotat localul cu un televizor color. La CM din 1990, cu România participantă, televizorul a prins de minune. În următorii ani, patronul Chilly a deschis cârciumi în Costineşti, în Bucureşti, în Delta Dunării. Şi nu în cămine studenţeşti.
Singura berărie adevărată, moartă prea devreme
În prima parte a anilor ’90, oamenii îşi deschideau terase prin curţi, scotocindu-se prin sufragerie şi bucătărie de mese şi scaune şi punând la bătaie frigiderul Fram sau de care aveau. Dacă e să vorbim de centrul Craiovei, prima cârciumă particuleră, inaugurată în vara lui 1990 sau până-n vară, a fost pe diagonală cu restaurantul Craiova, în intersecţie, unde vine azi o agenţie de turism, lângă sediul PDL. Nu semăna un scaun cu altul în barul acela, la fel şi-n cazul meselor. Barul oferea şi vişinată făcută-n casă, cine te controla pe atunci? Protecţia consumatorului mai avea până să se inventeze.
Totuşi, în nici un an de la căderea sistemului deloc regretat, a apărut la noi o cârciumă nemaivăzută până atunci şi nici de atunci încolo, Berăria Dolbier, unde e acum la Dolce Vita. Berărie în toată puterea cuvântului, care ea însăşi îşi fabrica băutura de bază, berea. Avea expuse la vederea străzii, în vitrină, butoaiele şi agregatele necesare. Şi totuşi, n-a trăit mult Casa Berii, că aşa-i spunea exact. Şi nici până-n ziua de azi nu s-a mai ivit ceva asemănător. Ce revoluţie om mai fi făcut şi noi?
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